In November, Gov. Kathy Hochul signed a bill that cosmetologists and natural hair stylists must be taught and tested in all hair types, including curly or wavy hair patterns, hair strand thickness and volume of hair.

“Textured hair is curl patterns, whether it be loose waves or tighter waves," said Trosekia Johnson, a stylist for 30 years and a licensed cosmetologist for 23 years.

Johnson says at The Salon Professional Academy, where she now teaches, students already work with all textures of hair, but they’re also launching a special program for people who don’t want to go through the entire cosmetology training but want to learn how to braid different styles, do maintenance locks, weaving, sew-ins, silk presses and more while maintaining the integrity of their customer’s natural hair.

Johnson says when she was a student in school, if the teacher didn’t know those styles, they didn’t learn it. 

"Most of the time, if we learn anything, especially like with braiding, I remember showing my fellow classmates how to braid over 20 years ago because it's just something that they didn't have an understanding of, of how to do, especially with adding hair in,” she said.

Johnson says if a stylist is not properly trained or taught how to take care of or style natural hair, they risk damaging their client's hair or maintaining the hair the client already has. She says it’s a concern she’s heard from clients she’s had.

"I had a client who was going on a cruise. An older lady. And her concern to me, ‘what am I going to do when I get my hair wet? The salon on the cruise ship and that stylist can't do my hair.’ She was really upset because she's gone to places where they weren't able to service her," she said.

Johnson says it’s also a way to educate people with natural texture on how to style their hair and maintain their hair and scalp. She’s glad the bill was passed, and says not learning how to style or maintain all hair types is a disservice to the community and cosmetologists themselves. 

"So when someone comes in your salon and they want some services done, if you don't know or understand that texture, now you just lost yourself a client," she said. “You just turned a client away disappointed because you can't service them. It's just not fair. Hair is hair."

She hopes other salons will embrace the new bill.

"As a cosmetologist, it’s just going to open up a world of understanding for so much and for so many," said Johnson.

The law will go into effect in May.